Around the world in 367 days

I thought I should do a post on day 367 given the slightly misleading title of this blog over the last 12 months!! Technically I have spent the last four days of my travels visiting just one place, Bournemouth. Whilst a lovely place, as my parents have been providing the accomodation and the standard is disctinctly un-hostel like, it defintely is a stretch to call it travelling. However, if nothing I make a damn good job of stretching a statement when required!!

The few days we have had here have been very enjoyable - catching up with the family, eating some great food and downing my fair share of booze!! A very nice buffer to lead me into day to day life.

However, tomorrow, real life should rear it's ugly head. A years worth of admin and post to catch up with. The scary task of taking a close look at the post travelling finances. Just two of a long list of mind numbing tasks that should keep me busy and off the streets for a while at least!

Expect the nature and tone of my posts to take a distinctly darker tone as my post travelling slump kicks in!!

Posted by Alexander at 22:40 | Permalink | Comments

From Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Rio. It has been a great little end to our year away. Ignoring the incident on the beach on day one we have enjoyed our stay here. The apartment we have rented is just off Copocabana beach and a short walk to Ipanema beach. With a stunning backdrop of lush mountains, Christ the Redeemer and a favela or three.

The first couple of days we just spent chilling around the beach getting a little bit of colour before we head back. Mine of course will fade on the flight home (who said wash off?) but Deborah should keep hers for a while yet. We did not take my camera to the beach, luckily, so no nice shots with blue skies as evidence - just the burnt scalp. Day three saw the weather changing, picture perfect skies swapped for low cloud and mist. Luckily today we managed to get up to see Christ the Redeemer at close quarters before the rain and cloud really came in and got a couple of, albeit misty, shots.

Tomorrow is our last night so do we have a lovely romantic final night planned? A nice meal and some wine perhaps? Not a chance, I am afraid that yours truly has decided he is going to go and see Flamengo play Vasco de Gama at the Maracana instead. Me coming home covered in bits of dead chicken and worse might not qualify as romantic. However I figure this is a once in a lifetime chance to go and see one of the biggest derbies in the world at one of the most famous stadiums in the world. Besides, there will be at least 2 or 3 romantic dinners over the course of the next 40 years or so!

Then Monday is the day, 362 days after we left the UK, that we will be heading back. I will not be depressed at that point though as I will still have 4 films or so to get through on the flight. I actually regard flying as a rather expensive trip to the cinema with a freebie of finding yourself magically transported to some other place.

Some time early on Tuesday morning we land and I am really looking forward to being met at the airport be the family. If nothing else they can take my rucksack - I am sick of the bloody thing now!!

*** UPDATE 20 October 2008 ***

So I may not have had romance in my final night but I certainly had passion!! The game I went to see in Buenos Aires was really good but going to the Maracana was something special. OK, it may have been less than half full but the atmosphere was incredible. The songs might not have had the musical quality of the Argentines but they made up for it with the samba drums and the level of noise. Throw in some flag waving, flares and a win for my new team and it set me up for a great final night of travels and one I will remember for a long time!

Posted by Alexander at 22:35 | Permalink | Comments

Following on from previous experiences we were robbed again today! Those first experiences barely count as experiences at all to be fair but today they got away with a whole bag of loot.

We were trying to get some last minute colour in our pasty frames, sunbathing on Copocabana beach in Rio, when some local scally-wag scarpered off with our bag into the crowds.

I'm not too bothered about the stuff that we lost other than the book that I was halfway through and rather enjoying. Nothing of real value was in there and can be replaced. I'm not even bothered about the thief; what bothers me is the two groups of locals behind that would have seen everything but claimed to have seen nothing.

I hate to make the comparison again but it's less likely to happen in Asia. In Cambodia, arguably in an area of greater poverty, it felt completely safe leaving stuff on the beach while we both swam.

This wasn't a great welcome to Rio on our first day and all under the watchful gaze of Christ the Redeemer! We have loved our time here in South American despite these experiences. We will continue to be extra vigilant (not that it worked!) and hopefully I can avoid posting Latino Ladron III in the next 5 days!

Posted by Alexander at 00:52 | Permalink | Comments

After 11 and a half months of hard travelling we though it would be nice to rest our weary feet for a while so picked Buenos Aires. Flash packing was also taken to a whole new level as we decided to rent an apartment for 11 days in the flashiest part of town, Recoleta, just a few blocks away from one Eva Peron! The reality is that it only costs a little bit more than hostelling but you get so much more. Just having space, wardrobes and a kitchen was great.

From Buenos Aires, Argentina

BA itself is a great city. It has a lot of different personalities, feeling at times like New York, Paris and London all within a few blocks while still posessing a great Latin spirit and vibe. On our travels there have only been a few places that we wouldn't hesitate to live in (Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, Melbourne, Auckland) but you can definitely add BA to that list.

I had wanted to go and see Boca Juniors play while there but the president has made an election promise to ban tourists this season. That's one less rip off fake football top sold!! Instead I went to see Velez Sarsfield play San Lorenzo so they are now my team and have sold one more rip off fake football scarf! Appropriately they play in the same colours as my team (Spurs) and even more appropriately they lost!! Still, they are my team now and we support them through thick and thin, at least while in the country! It was a great experience though, they really do take their football supporting seriously. The 90 minutes was a constant barrage of noise and singing with not a single prawn sandwich in sight! Each team has their own set of hooligans that join the terraces just before kick off and are welcomed like Kings. The corresponding fixture last year left one fan shot dead but luckily everyone was well behaved this time round!

The rest of our time was equally divided amounst exploring the city, drinking coffee, chilling generally, eating meriendas and cooking steak. No offence intended to the five steaks that meant to cause no offence to any previous steak I'd eaten but I cook a mean Lomo!! Those original five steaks now make up the arse end of the top 10 steaks I have ever had.

From Iguazu, Argentina

After 12 days we thought we should hit the road again so headed up to Iguazu Falls on an 18 hour bus journey. It was the longest bus journey we have had to do (not bad after hearing about some people's 50 hour bus journeys!) but the good news is it was our last!!

We saw Niagara Falls a few years ago and Iguazu Falls are equally spectacular!! A few people have said Iguazu is better but I would say that the two are pretty equal in different ways. Iguazu is definitely bigger with many more waterfalls and in a stunning jungle location but the raw power of Niagara is incredible. I feel privilidged to have visited both.

Now tomorrow we fly up to Rio. The final stop before we fly back to London next Tuesday. We have gone for an apartment for the week on Copocabana beach. Though not quite the bargain of Buenos Aires it still compares favourably to the cost of staying in a hostel.

Posted by Alexander at 17:56 | Permalink | Comments

The financial crisis. Global warming. Coups. Kids today. Unemployment. Political unrest. Falling stock markets. Britney Spears. Decreasing ozone. Military operations. The housing market. Tottenham Hotspur. Corrupt government. The price of milk. American politics.

Is there any good news out there?

Posted by Alexander at 14:28 | Permalink | Comments

... I won't finish that as you might be having your breakfast!!

For the last few weeks and now with only two weeks remaining we have obviously been thinking more and more about our return. A month or so ago if someone had offered me a flight home I would have had to consider it. Not because we weren't enjoying it, just that after 9 months you start to miss things and travelling can be weary - Rio seemed a long way and a long time on long distance buses away. Now if someone offered me six more week I would have to consider it. This has been the best year of my life and it's sad that it will soon be coming to an end!

The things missing from my life have definitely been on my mind of late and while friends and family are a given (you know we love you all!) what else have I missed and am looking forward to:

My Dad's egg and bacon sandwiches. The world's best, if you are ever in Bournemouth make sure you drop by. If you are not passing it wouldn't be the worst thing you ever did if you took a detour! My TV, 540 lines of PAL optimised viewing beauty. I don't however miss UK programming. Eastenders, Corrie and a thousand free digital channels have not left a hole in my life. My man bag. Work. It's not necessarily the office but I miss developing software. To be honest I missed that when I was there too but hopefully if there are any banks left when we get back someone will give me a job? I miss a regular pay check. My Topfield. More importantly, my Topfield remote control, with her slender kneck, curvaceous body, the feel of the rubber beneath my fingers and the instant reaction when you press the right buttons - the second most comfortable thing you can hold in the palm of your hand! The most comfortable; a cold beer with friends on a warm sunny evening after a long day working hard in the office! Although, I can't miss it too much - now I can get hold of a beer any time I like, there have been more than 300 warm sunny evenings this year, it doesn't cost 3 quid and working hard is not a pre-requisite! Clothes hung in a wardrobe. London. It's probably something that hastened our departure but I defintely miss it; the parks, bars, restaurants - not the tube though! A washing machine.

At the same time I'm going to miss as part of travelling:

Seeing or doing something(s) new every single day. Cheap eats, it's less than a quid for a 16oz top quality Argentinian steak right now. The freedom to map out every day in whichever direction takes us. Cheap drinks, whether it's 25 pence for a beer on a Cambodian beach at sunset or 2 pounds for a Cabernet Sauvingnon Reserve in Buenos Aires cheap drinks have followed and been a big part of our travels. Taking pictures of things I've read and dreamt about visiting for 32 years.

Whilst also aware that some things are not going to be missed:

Dodgy plumbing. Long distance buses. Altitude. People trying to rob or rip you off. My rucksack. The same old clothes for one year. Carrying the rucksack. Looking like a travelling bum. Packing the rucksack. Smelling like a travelling bum.

I miss a lot of people and things from back home and I'm looking forward to having them back in my life again but for a while this year away is going to leave a pretty big hole to fill!

Posted by Alexander at 17:12 | Permalink | Comments

We have spent the last few days following in the footsteps of Che Guevara travelling along Ruta 40 in Northern Argentina. However, there was no transformation to Marxist revolutionary for us - instead we found the vinyards and bodegas of Cafayate and a whole different transformation!

It's getting near the end of the trip now so budgets are being thrown out the window. Therfore we decided to hire a car for a few days and trace some of his initial steps of discovery. We didn't see a great deal of poverty to be fair but we did see some pretty nice landscapes (photos uploaded to the galleries when I find a PC with USB...). We have been treated to a fair few of those recently through Bolivia and then on the unofficial birthday ride from Chile into Argentina. Altiplanos, multicolored lagoons and psychedelic salt flats to name but a few.

My offical birthday was spent in San Pedro de Atacama, Chile and Deborah got me back for having food poisoning on her birthday by being sick for mine. So the birthday celebrations were delayed a few days until we got to Salta in Argentina. Everyone says that Argentinian steak is the best and I can't argue. On our first night we were treated to an all you can eat BBQ. I mean no offence to anyone who has ever cooked me steak but they were the five best steaks I have ever had. Weighing in at around 1.5 kilos though I'm still paying for it now. As a theme for the evening the wine was also all you can drink. A trip out to the local nightclub with the locals ensued which was fun though I'm reliably informed at the end someone had to take me from the taxi to help me to my room! Me and drink - never again!!!

Now we find ourselves in Cordoba, just a pitstop, before we take an overnight bus this evening to Buenos Aires. Again, budget has been thrown out the window and we have decided to rent an apartment for a week. I love backpacking put I'm a big fan of flashpacking too and can not wait to spend some quality time in what sounds a pretty exciting city!!

Posted by Alexander at 12:00 | Permalink | Comments

Anyone who has even a vague interest in politics will know that there is one subject dominating the political landscape at the moment - the hirsute invasion of my face!

Over the last 4 weeks hirsute troops stationed on my head have been crossing into southern regions in a planned manouver. Some leading comentators have suggested this is merely a rouse to exploit oily deposits found in the region.

Public opinion on the subject has been divided. Alexander is currently at his summer residence, Casa Blanca, in Salta, Northern Argentina where both camps have been represented outside the grounds. Those for the invasion waving banners reading 'Four more weeks'; banners reading 'No more Bush' for those against.

As with all good democratic systems the future of the Bush is going to a public vote, with strict rules:

1. Full penetration only; no dimpled chads
2. Postal votes must be dated, stamped and signed
3. All regional votes to be in and counted by 1201 GMT, September 22nd 2008
4. In the event of votes not being counted correctly a supreme final decison will be made directly

With voting options as such:

1. 4 more weeks
2. Trimming of troops
3. Partial withdrawal leaving troops stationed in the region north of the mouth
4. Down with Bush

At this time, Fashion police have confirmed they will let the democratic process prevail but may re-examine their stance after the results are declared.

Posted by Alexander at 12:00 | Permalink | Comments

Thanks to all for the birthday wishes!! Anyone who didn't know or forgot then fret not, you get another chance!!

Whilst the 17th is the official date I figure my unofficial date is now the 19th of September. This is based on the fact that having crossed the international date line twice I have now completed two less rotations on this earth than I should have done by my age. Looking closely I believe this benefit can be seen in my youthful appearance.

In addition, given my Spanish royal heritage I think it only pertinent that my birthday should be celebrated globally on two dates! Enjoy!!

Posted by Alexander at 00:00 | Permalink | Comments

You know what they say... so I won't bother...

From Salar de Uyuni Tour, Bolivia

We have just finished a three day tour of the salt flats, lagoons, volcanoes and other natural wonders of Southern Bolivia and it was just stunning. Definitely some of the most incredible scenery we have come across over the last 11 months and there has been some stiff competition. Don't believe me then check out the rest of the photos!!

What the pictures don't tell: just how bloody cold it got, -8 degrees on the second night and 10 blankets and two hot water bottles were not enough to stop Deborah freezing her bits off. Also, the great fun we had with our group; an Aussie, three Swiss, our good selves and of course the Bolivian driver and cook (a bit miserable but -8 degrees every other day would make me pretty miserable too!!) - exploring Southern Bolivia, eating pretty respectable (for a tour) Bolivian food and playing silly games on the salt flats and sillier Swiss card games with only 32 cards, a bunch of farmers and a suspect queen or four.

All in all definitely a top 10 highlight!!

Posted by Alexander at 19:06 | Permalink | Comments

It's been a long while since I rated anything a highlight, all the way back to the three days we spent with the Cambodian Childrens Fund. However, it's not really that there haven't been any highlights, it's just that I have been somewhat complacent in labelling them as such. There have in fact been a good few, namely:

Learning scuba diving in Thailand
Life altering events in Costa Rica
Red hot magma
Galapagos Islands
Hiking around Huaraz
Machu Picchu and Lake Titikaka

And now we have La Paz; I wasn't expecting to like the place at all but the city itself actually has some pretty nice aspects. Cobbled streets, nice squares, dried Llama foetuses, indigenous peoples and great churches and cathedrals - all over 3,500 metres above sea level!!!

From Death Road, La Paz, Bolivia

We also did a day trip from La Paz to ride down the most dangerous road in the world, effectionately known as 'Death Road'. 64km of downhill (apart from about 6km of hard work pedalling uphill through one stretch) mountain biking. Statistically there are probably more dangerous black spots but it still ranks up there. Between 100 and 200 people a year die on this stretch of the road and since 2001 there have been 16 deaths to tourists cycling the route; the most recent coming just three months ago. Some points definitely need a little more concentration with the road narrowing to less than 10 feet, made all the more exciting by the fact that you spend most of the time on the left hand side just a couple of feet from a 100 metre plunge and certain death. I've not had to concentrate that hard since learning my 9 times tables!!! I only had one dicey moment when my gear cable snapped; as I was looking back trying to see the problem, whilst trying to divide 72 by 8, I came within a couple of inches of becoming number 17!

From Pampas, Bolivia

After the excitement of the mountain biking we went on a three day trip from La Paz to the Pampas, an area similar to the Pantanal in Brazil. The wildlife you see really is impressive. We saw Alligators and Caimans, Anacondas, Capyburras, lots of different types of birds, Piranhas and other fish, Monkeys, Turtles and Pink Dolphins - all multitudinous, the Alligators and Caimans alone numbered in the many hundreds!!! It was definitely a fun tour with some fun people!!

Six weeks to go now so probably only a few highlights left though we are looking forward to the salt flats at Uyuni, wine tours in Mendoza, partying in Buenos Aires, Iguazu Falls and a final week chilling in Rio!!

Posted by Alexander at 17:00 | Permalink | Comments